Why Razor Head Geometry Matters
When choosing a safety razor, most wet shavers focus on handle design, material, or blade brand—but one of the most critical factors in your shaving experience is razor head geometry. This hidden element determines how aggressive, efficient, and comfortable your shave will be.
Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned traditional shaver, understanding razor head geometry can elevate your routine from good to exceptional.
What Is Razor Head Geometry?
Razor head geometry refers to the design and engineering of the head that holds the blade, specifically how it exposes and supports the blade against your skin. The four main components are:
1. Blade Gap
The distance between the blade and the safety bar. A larger gap increases blade exposure, making the razor more aggressive and efficient at removing stubble—but potentially harsher on sensitive skin.
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Smaller gap = milder shave
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Larger gap = more aggressive shave
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Choosing the right geometry can dramatically reduce irritation, improve closeness, and even extend the life of your blades. It’s not about what's “better”—it's about what suits your skin type, beard growth, and technique.
Recommendations by Shave Style
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Daily Shavers with Sensitive Skin:
Look for razors with minimal blade exposure and a small blade gap.
Try: Henson AL13 Mild or Merkur 34C. -
Coarse Hair or Infrequent Shavers:
You’ll benefit from higher efficiency and a bit more aggression.
Try: RazoRock Game Changer .84. -
Adjustable Enthusiasts:
If you like to experiment, go with an adjustable head to dial in your perfect shave.
Try: Parker Variant.
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2. Blade Exposure
The degree to which the blade sticks out from the razor head. It can be:
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Neutral (in line with the safety bar)
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Positive (blade protrudes slightly—more aggressive)
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Negative (blade slightly recessed—less aggressive)
Example:
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Neutral Exposure: Rockwell 6S Plate R3
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Positive Exposure: Rex Ambassador Adjustable at higher settings
3. Blade Angle (Shaving Angle)
This is the optimal angle at which the blade contacts your skin, usually between 30–45 degrees. Head design influences how easy it is to maintain this angle during a shave.
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Steep angle razors require a more vertical hold.
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Shallow angle razors require a flatter hold against the face.
Example:
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Steep Angle: Feather AS-D2 (shallow blade exposure)
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Shallow Angle: Merkur 34C (forgiving learning curve)
4. Head Type: Open Comb vs. Closed Comb
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Closed comb razors have a solid safety bar—ideal for daily shavers and beginners.
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Open comb razors have teeth-like spacing—better for thicker, longer stubble and more aggressive performance.
Example:
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Closed Comb: Henson AL13
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Open Comb: Fatip Grande
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Final Thoughts
Razor head geometry is the unsung hero of wet shaving—an invisible yet powerful element that shapes your entire experience. By understanding blade gap, exposure, angle, and comb type, you can choose a razor that works with your skin, not against it.
Example:
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Mild: Edwin Jagger DE89 (smaller blade gap)
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Aggressive: Merkur Futur Matte Chrome Adjustable Double Edge
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