Short answer: Yes—but it depends on your skin type, beard texture, and technique.
One of the most common questions we get at The Razor Company is whether it’s safe—or smart—to shave against the grain. Let’s dive into the pros, cons, and best practices for getting a close shave without irritation.
What Does "Shaving Against the Grain" Mean?
“The grain” refers to the natural direction your hair grows. Shaving against it means going in the opposite direction. You can determine your grain by running your fingers across your stubble—the smoother the feel, the more you're going with the grain.
Pros of Shaving Against the Grain
- Closer shave: Blade cuts the hair right at or just below the skin level.
- Longer-lasting results: Skin stays smoother between shaves.
- Polished appearance: Ideal for special occasions or photo-ready grooming.
Cons of Shaving Against the Grain
- More irritation: Especially if you have sensitive skin or poor technique.
- Higher chance of razor bumps: Common for coarse or curly hair.
- Tugging and pulling: Can occur without proper prep or tools.
Should You Shave Against the Grain?
Great Candidates:
- Men with resilient skin and few issues with post-shave irritation
- Those with fine or straight beard hair
- Experienced shavers using DE or straight razors
Use Caution If You Have:
- Sensitive or acne-prone skin
- Coarse, curly, or ingrown-prone hair
In these cases, try a multi-pass shave where you finish across the grain instead of against it.
How to Safely Shave Against the Grain
- Start with a good prep: Use warm water, a quality pre-shave oil, and exfoliate.
- Use a slick shaving soap: Check out Zingari Man The Watchman Shaving Soap
- Go multi-pass: First with the grain, then across, and only finally against if needed.
- Use a light touch: Let the weight of your razor do the work.
- Apply an aftershave balm: Alcohol-free options help prevent redness and dryness.
Recommended Products
- Merkur 34C Safety Razor – Perfect for controlled, close shaving.
- Martin de Candre Unscented Shaving Soap – Great cushion and glide.
- Proraso Aftershave Balm Sensitive Skin Formula – Soothes and hydrates skin post-shave.
Final Thoughts
Shaving against the grain can be worth it—if you have the right skin, the right beard, and the right technique. Start slow, use the best products, and listen to your skin. If done right, you’ll enjoy that ultra-close, ultra-smooth finish with minimal irritation.
Have questions? Explore our full Shaving Q&A blog series or contact us directly—we’re here to help you get your best shave ever.
— The Team at The Razor Company